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If you're looking for more ways to get the most out of your new flash, make sure to dive into our guide to taking awesome flash pictures with your best camera flashes for DSLR.

Whether for portraits, weddings or darkly lit environments, the proper use of a flash is something only professionals seem to get.

The Speedlite EX is a compact zoom flash covering a range of mm, with a maximum guide number of ft. Sometimes simple is better. The features are pretty limited: It comes with a built-in bounce card and a wide-angle diffuser, and it offers eight steps of manual brightness control.

It rotates degrees and tilts 90 degrees, and it has some pretty simple controls that any novice can get a handle on fairly quickly.

Probably the best feature of this flash, considering the price, is the slave mode, which allows you to set the flash to automatically fire when it senses light from another Speedlight.

That alone will seal the deal for many budget-conscious shooters. But if you do, this thing is thoroughly next-gen. First off, the flash mounts right on the hot shoe of your Nikon cam as expected, and is specifically compatible with the Nikon i-TTL.

You can control the light with standard optical control or the more updated radio control — the latter letting you easily pair a few SBs for a more immersive remote lighting solution.

It tilts from -7 to 90 degrees and covers a zoom span of 24—mm, giving you some nice versatility. But arguably the most interesting feature is the Cooling System — which Nikon claims is the first hot shoe-mounted cooling system on the market.

It allows you to snap up to consecutive shots, meaning your shoots can run longer and you won't miss a moment. The Neewer NW measures The unit has a fixed zoom, with a vertical rotation angle between 7 and 90 degrees and a horizontal rotation angle between 0 and degrees.

It also has a power-saving mode if you have a long photo session ahead. Customers said the Neewer NW was a great value for the price, but noted that the instruction manual was unintelligible due to a bad English translation.

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HuffPost Personal Video Horoscopes. Electronic flash units have shutter speed limits with focal-plane shutters. Focal-plane shutters expose using two curtains that cross the sensor.

The first one opens and the second curtain follows it after a delay equal to the nominal shutter speed. The time available to fire a single flash which uniformly illuminates the image recorded on the sensor is the exposure time minus the shutter travel time.

Equivalently, the minimum possible exposure time is the shutter travel time plus the flash duration plus any delays in triggering the flash.

For example, a Nikon D has a shutter travel time of about 2. However some time is required to trigger the flash.

X-sync speeds for medium format cameras when using focal-plane shutters are somewhat slower, e. In the past, slow-burning single-use flash bulbs allowed the use of focal-plane shutters at maximum speed because they produced continuous light for the time taken for the exposing slit to cross the film gate.

High-end flash units address this problem by offering a mode, typically called FP sync or HSS High Speed Sync , which fires the flash tube multiple times during the time the slit traverses the sensor.

Such units require communication with the camera and are thus dedicated to a particular camera make. The multiple flashes result in a significant decrease in guide number, since each is only a part of the total flash power, but it's all that illuminates any particular part of the sensor.

Current flash units frequently have much lower guide numbers in HSS mode than in normal modes, even at speeds below the shutter traverse time.

For example, the Mecablitz 58 AF-1 digital flash unit has a guide number of 58 in normal operation, but only 20 in HSS mode, even at low speeds.

As well as dedicated studio use, flash may be used as the main light source where ambient light is inadequate, or as a supplementary source in more complex lighting situations.

Basic flash lighting produces a hard, frontal light unless modified in some way. Softboxes , diffusers that cover the flash lamp, scatter direct light and reduce its harshness.

Reflectors, including umbrellas , flat-white backgrounds, drapes and reflector cards are commonly used for this purpose even with small hand-held flash units.

Bounce flash is a related technique in which flash is directed onto a reflective surface, for example a white ceiling or a flash umbrella , which then reflects light onto the subject.

It can be used as fill-flash or, if used indoors, as ambient lighting for the whole scene. Bouncing creates softer, less artificial-looking illumination than direct flash, often reducing overall contrast and expanding shadow and highlight detail, and typically requires more flash power than direct lighting.

It's also possible to use one's own palm for that purpose, resulting in warmer tones on the picture, as well as eliminating the need to carry additional accessories.

Fill flash or "fill-in flash" describes flash used to supplement ambient light in order to illuminate a subject close to the camera that would otherwise be in shade relative to the rest of the scene.

The flash unit is set to expose the subject correctly at a given aperture, while shutter speed is calculated to correctly expose for the background or ambient light at that aperture setting.

Secondary or slave flash units may be synchronized to the master unit to provide light from additional directions. The slave units are electrically triggered by the light from the master flash.

Many small flashes and studio monolights have optical slaves built in. Wireless radio transmitters, such as PocketWizards , allow the receiver unit to be around a corner, or at a distance too far to trigger using an optical sync.

To strobe, some high end units can be set to flash a specified number of times at a specified frequency. This allows action to be frozen multiple times in a single exposure.

Colored gels can also be used to change the color of the flash. Correction gels are commonly used, so that the light of the flash is the same as tungsten lights using a CTO gel or fluorescent lights.

Open flash , Free flash or manually-triggered flash refers to modes in which the photographer manually triggers the flash unit to fire independently of the shutter.

Using on-camera flash will give a very harsh light, which results in a loss of shadows in the image, because the only lightsource is in practically the same place as the camera.

Balancing the flash power and ambient lighting or using off-camera flash can help overcome these issues. Using an umbrella or softbox the flash will have to be off-camera for this makes softer shadows.

Dark, murky pictures with excessive image noise or "grain" will result. In order to get good flash pictures with simple cameras, it is important not to exceed the recommended distance for flash pictures.

Larger flashes, especially studio units and monoblocks, have sufficient power for larger distances, even through an umbrella, and can even be used against sunlight at short distances.

Cameras which automatically flash in low light conditions often do not take into account the distance to the subject, causing them to fire even when the subject is several tens of metres away and unaffected by the flash.

In crowds at sports matches, concerts and so on, the stands or the auditorium can be a constant sea of flashes, resulting in distraction to the performers or players and providing absolutely no benefit to the photographers.

The " red-eye effect " is another problem with on camera and ring flash units. Since the retina of the human eye reflects red light straight back in the direction it came from, pictures taken from straight in front of a face often exhibit this effect.

It can be somewhat reduced by using the "red eye reduction" found on many cameras a pre-flash that makes the subject's irises contract.

However, very good results can be obtained only with a flash unit that is separated from the camera, sufficiently far from the optical axis , or by using bounce flash, where the flash head is angled to bounce light off a wall, ceiling or reflector.

On some cameras the flash exposure measuring logic fires a pre-flash very quickly before the real flash. If the exposure flash is fired at approximately this interval after the TTL measuring flash, people will be squinting or have their eyes shut.

One solution may be the FEL flash exposure lock offered on some more expensive cameras, which allows the photographer to fire the measuring flash at some earlier time, long many seconds before taking the real picture.

Unfortunately many camera manufacturers do not make the TTL pre-flash interval configurable. Flash distracts people, limiting the number of pictures that can be taken without irritating them.

Photographing with flash may not be permitted in some museums even after purchasing a permit for taking pictures.

Flash equipment may take some time to set up, and like any grip equipment, may need to be carefully secured, especially if hanging overhead, so it does not fall on anyone.

A small breeze can easily topple a flash with an umbrella on a lightstand if it is not tied down or sandbagged.

Larger equipment e. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. This article needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources.

Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. Play media. Main article: Flash-lamp. Left: the distance limitation as seen when taking picture of the wooden floor.

Right: the same picture taken with incandescent ambient light, using a longer exposure and a higher ISO speed setting. The distance is no longer restricted, but the colors are unnatural because of a lack of color temperature compensation, and the picture may suffer from more grain or noise.

Front and back views of an Agfa Tully flash attachment for AG-1 flashbulbs,

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Girl Flash Camera

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